Latest project is a Linn LP12, started as a standard build but that kind of went out of the window,custom walnut plinth by Woodsong Audio, machined toplate and subchassis, Ekos tonearm and Dynavector moving coil
Are you buying a new Linn and that's your custom? Is that the Klimax or mid tier?
Latest project is a Linn LP12, started as a standard build but that kind of went out of the window,custom walnut plinth by Woodsong Audio, machined toplate and subchassis, Ekos tonearm and Dynavector moving coil
Are you buying a new Linn and that's your custom? Is that the Klimax or mid tier?
Custom as in sourced piece by piece,lots of parts available when people upgrade to the higher levels, am building entirely from 2nd hand mostly E-bay
Was the deck used too? Looks like perfect condition.
The wooden plinth? yes they are highly regarded hand built items and generally get well looked after.Mostly get changed out when the owner changes their decor.....
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brianlux
Moving through All Kinds of Terrain. Posts: 40,672
In one issue of Audio Advisor's catalogue I pieced together their most expensive turn table with their most expensive cartridge and was astounded to find you could actually spend a quarter of a million dollars on a record player. What on earth can hear that well?
“The fear of death follows from the fear of life. A man [or woman] who lives fully is prepared to die at any time.”
In one issue of Audio Advisor's catalogue I pieced together their most expensive turn table with their most expensive cartridge and was astounded to find you could actually spend a quarter of a million dollars on a record player. What on earth can hear that well?
It sounded great on test. Reverse feature still works, too.
Now I just need to pair it with some speakers.
Not entirely sure of the year, but they started making the 2000 in 1967.
Looks really nice. I'd like to get a Sansui. Have a Pioneer and Marantz, so might as well finish off the big trifecta.
This was a little before Sansui hit the big time, I think, but it still has big-time sound.
I had a line on some KLH Model Sixes to pair with it, but someone else was quicker.
I've never heard the 6's, but I know of them and that they are well respected. I hope you score something good soon. I'm working on a pair of KEF Reference 101's right now. Someone has a whole Marantz setup (modern) but has the R's with them. The whole thing is 1000, so I'm hoping he'll split off the speakers for around 2 or 250. If he does, I'm taking them down. They look perfect. And legendary as well.
2000- Atlanta, GA: New Orleans, LA: Memphis, TN: Nashville, TN
2003- Raleigh, NC: Charlotte, NC: Atlanta, GA
2004- Asheville, NC (hometown show)
2006- Cincinnati, OH
2008- Columbia, SC
2009- Chicago, IL x 2 / Ed Vedder- Atlanta, GA x 2
2010- Bristow, VA
2011- Alpine Valley, WI (PJ20) x 2 / Ed Vedder- Chicago, IL
2012- Atlanta, GA
2013- Charlotte, NC
2014- Cincinnati, OH
2015- New York, NY
2016- Greenville, SC: Hampton, VA:: Columbia, SC: Raleigh, NC : Lexington, KY: Philly, PA 2: (Wrigley) Chicago, IL x 2 (holy shit): Temple of the Dog- Philly, PA
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
If hope can grow from dirt like me, it can be done. - EV
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
I haven't done it myself but I have seen where others have. I'd be looking at chemicals like Goof Off if I were to attempt it. Sanding and peeling that case would suck.
Those German cases are beautiful too.
If hope can grow from dirt like me, it can be done. - EV
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
Hey have you ever stripped the vinyl off the metal case of a Marantz? I don't have a wood case for mine so I'm at a cross roads. Right now, it's in a cabinet, but later this year it will be on a cabinet, so the optics will matter more. I'm debating stripping it down to the metal and then possibly powdercoating it or painting myself. My other option is doing an aftermarket wood cabinet OR getting one of these (which is overprice, but nice looking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marantz-Wood-case-WC-22-R-Holzkiste-Cabinet-Case-2230-2235-2245-2270-2275-BLACK/252467950196?hash=item3ac8433274:g:6sQAAOSw-FZXjqlzThe piano black is really nice but if I was doing this project I think I would go for the walnut in the other E Bay listing
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
Hey have you ever stripped the vinyl off the metal case of a Marantz? I don't have a wood case for mine so I'm at a cross roads. Right now, it's in a cabinet, but later this year it will be on a cabinet, so the optics will matter more. I'm debating stripping it down to the metal and then possibly powdercoating it or painting myself. My other option is doing an aftermarket wood cabinet OR getting one of these (which is overprice, but nice looking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marantz-Wood-case-WC-22-R-Holzkiste-Cabinet-Case-2230-2235-2245-2270-2275-BLACK/252467950196?hash=item3ac8433274:g:6sQAAOSw-FZXjqlzThe piano black is really nice but if I was doing this project I think I would go for the walnut in the other E Bay listing
I have a black face Marantz, so I feel like the piano would go a bit better. The walnut is really nice though. They are all wildly expensive though. Costs as much as a unit that hasn't been restored.
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
Hey have you ever stripped the vinyl off the metal case of a Marantz? I don't have a wood case for mine so I'm at a cross roads. Right now, it's in a cabinet, but later this year it will be on a cabinet, so the optics will matter more. I'm debating stripping it down to the metal and then possibly powdercoating it or painting myself. My other option is doing an aftermarket wood cabinet OR getting one of these (which is overprice, but nice looking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marantz-Wood-case-WC-22-R-Holzkiste-Cabinet-Case-2230-2235-2245-2270-2275-BLACK/252467950196?hash=item3ac8433274:g:6sQAAOSw-FZXjqlzThe piano black is really nice but if I was doing this project I think I would go for the walnut in the other E Bay listing
I have a black face Marantz, so I feel like the piano would go a bit better. The walnut is really nice though. They are all wildly expensive though. Costs as much as a unit that hasn't been restored.
I've thought about that too. You will likely never see a return on the investment other than pride of ownership. They are beautiful though.
Some of the cases I have seen stripped and painted look amazing. As always, good prep work shows in the finished product.
If I were in your shoes, I'd strip and paint the metal case first. You can always get a better one later.
Also, and I'm sure you know this, you'll want to remove the metal case if you're using a wooden one instead. Those things heat up quickly with an additional layer of material on them.
Good luck with whatever you decide. Please post pics when you're done!
If hope can grow from dirt like me, it can be done. - EV
Serviced a few years ago. (Not by me.) My friend says they did a tuner alignment, recapped the power supply and replaced transistors. Not sure if he means the outputs or not.
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
Hey have you ever stripped the vinyl off the metal case of a Marantz? I don't have a wood case for mine so I'm at a cross roads. Right now, it's in a cabinet, but later this year it will be on a cabinet, so the optics will matter more. I'm debating stripping it down to the metal and then possibly powdercoating it or painting myself. My other option is doing an aftermarket wood cabinet OR getting one of these (which is overprice, but nice looking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marantz-Wood-case-WC-22-R-Holzkiste-Cabinet-Case-2230-2235-2245-2270-2275-BLACK/252467950196?hash=item3ac8433274:g:6sQAAOSw-FZXjqlzThe piano black is really nice but if I was doing this project I think I would go for the walnut in the other E Bay listing
I have a black face Marantz, so I feel like the piano would go a bit better. The walnut is really nice though. They are all wildly expensive though. Costs as much as a unit that hasn't been restored.
I've thought about that too. You will likely never see a return on the investment other than pride of ownership. They are beautiful though.
Some of the cases I have seen stripped and painted look amazing. As always, good prep work shows in the finished product.
If I were in your shoes, I'd strip and paint the metal case first. You can always get a better one later.
Also, and I'm sure you know this, you'll want to remove the metal case if you're using a wooden one instead. Those things heat up quickly with an additional layer of material on them.
Good luck with whatever you decide. Please post pics when you're done!
You're right, the investment is pretty low on stripping and painting. And if you F it up, well go with the piano or walnut. I think I could strip it with some heavy duty stripping and a heat gun. The bigger question is whether to try and paint it myself or take it to a body shop. That would probably run a hundred bucks to powder coat or paint it.
Good old RustOleum is what I use for that kind of thing. It's pretty forgiving to work with.
Prime first, then a couple light coats of Gloss Black (or blue to match the dial lights). Just be careful to not hold the can too close.
Same thing applies as before, if you don't like the result, you can have it professionally done.
So you've done this? Did you sand (like with steel wool 000) it at all before applying the primer to give it a little bit of surface to stick?
I do my own framing for prints and I use rustoleum to paint the frames at times. Comes out great.
I haven't done a receiver but I have painted a lot of metal enclosures for electronics, mostly effects pedals and project boxes for amp builds.
Definitely sand the surface before priming but I have had better luck and less clean up by using green Scotch Brite pads.
I always stay away from steel wool for electronic equipment since the little fibers are hard to see and I'm not confident that I could get all of them before reassembly. Don't want that stuff getting on the boards.
If hope can grow from dirt like me, it can be done. - EV
Good old RustOleum is what I use for that kind of thing. It's pretty forgiving to work with.
Prime first, then a couple light coats of Gloss Black (or blue to match the dial lights). Just be careful to not hold the can too close.
Same thing applies as before, if you don't like the result, you can have it professionally done.
So you've done this? Did you sand (like with steel wool 000) it at all before applying the primer to give it a little bit of surface to stick?
I do my own framing for prints and I use rustoleum to paint the frames at times. Comes out great.
I haven't done a receiver but I have painted a lot of metal enclosures for electronics, mostly effects pedals and project boxes for amp builds.
Definitely sand the surface before priming but I have had better luck and less clean up by using green Scotch Brite pads.
I always stay away from steel wool for electronic equipment since the little fibers are hard to see and I'm not confident that I could get all of them before reassembly. Don't want that stuff getting on the boards.
That's a good point... thanks for the tip. I have refinished lots of furniture, so steel wool is essential, followed by tack cloth. I can see how that could be an issue on the electronics.
Disassemble, degrease, clean, reassemble and relube so far. This one was made in 1970 and it appeared to have the original lubricant that turned into a varnish-like substance on everything.
All of the controls and the tonearm were seized in place. Mechanical functions are working again.
Checking wiring, motor and contacts next. The hard part is done, at least.
All of those levers, cams and gears are incredibly precise. They require impeccable fit in order for everything to work properly. Tedious couple of days with this one.
I can't help but marvel at the engineering and manufacturing prowess that went into these old decks.
If hope can grow from dirt like me, it can be done. - EV
Comments
Now I just need to pair it with some speakers.
Not entirely sure of the year, but they started making the 2000 in 1967.
I had a line on some KLH Model Sixes to pair with it, but someone else was quicker.
I'm working on a pair of KEF Reference 101's right now. Someone has a whole Marantz setup (modern) but has the R's with them. The whole thing is 1000, so I'm hoping he'll split off the speakers for around 2 or 250. If he does, I'm taking them down. They look perfect. And legendary as well.
livefootsteps.org/user/?usr=446
1995- New Orleans, LA : New Orleans, LA
1996- Charleston, SC
1998- Atlanta, GA: Birmingham, AL: Greenville, SC: Knoxville, TN
2000- Atlanta, GA: New Orleans, LA: Memphis, TN: Nashville, TN
2003- Raleigh, NC: Charlotte, NC: Atlanta, GA
2004- Asheville, NC (hometown show)
2006- Cincinnati, OH
2008- Columbia, SC
2009- Chicago, IL x 2 / Ed Vedder- Atlanta, GA x 2
2010- Bristow, VA
2011- Alpine Valley, WI (PJ20) x 2 / Ed Vedder- Chicago, IL
2012- Atlanta, GA
2013- Charlotte, NC
2014- Cincinnati, OH
2015- New York, NY
2016- Greenville, SC: Hampton, VA:: Columbia, SC: Raleigh, NC : Lexington, KY: Philly, PA 2: (Wrigley) Chicago, IL x 2 (holy shit): Temple of the Dog- Philly, PA
2017- ED VED- Louisville, KY
2018- Chicago, IL x2, Boston, MA x2
2020- Nashville, TN
2022- Smashville
2023- Austin, TX x2
That should make for a nice little system for a small room.
Pics when it's done
Either way, it sounds really good. It also looks brand new. Super clean and a good candidate for a full resto down the road.
Those German cases are beautiful too.
Some of the cases I have seen stripped and painted look amazing. As always, good prep work shows in the finished product.
If I were in your shoes, I'd strip and paint the metal case first. You can always get a better one later.
Also, and I'm sure you know this, you'll want to remove the metal case if you're using a wooden one instead. Those things heat up quickly with an additional layer of material on them.
Good luck with whatever you decide. Please post pics when you're done!
Prime first, then a couple light coats of Gloss Black (or blue to match the dial lights). Just be careful to not hold the can too close.
Same thing applies as before, if you don't like the result, you can have it professionally done.
I do my own framing for prints and I use rustoleum to paint the frames at times. Comes out great.
Definitely sand the surface before priming but I have had better luck and less clean up by using green Scotch Brite pads.
I always stay away from steel wool for electronic equipment since the little fibers are hard to see and I'm not confident that I could get all of them before reassembly. Don't want that stuff getting on the boards.
All of the controls and the tonearm were seized in place. Mechanical functions are working again.
Checking wiring, motor and contacts next. The hard part is done, at least.
All of those levers, cams and gears are incredibly precise. They require impeccable fit in order for everything to work properly. Tedious couple of days with this one.
I can't help but marvel at the engineering and manufacturing prowess that went into these old decks.