Yeah that's what I would've done, minus the singing PJ. Only because MR would come over to me anyway
Seriously though, to come back from what Occy had to go through, and
then become World Champion takes guts and determination. He's a role model for everybody
Honestly if you make a list of surfers of today and past and throw Occy's name in there, show it to any gremmie, ask them who there favourite surfer is, 75% will say Occy.
I don't get the surfing hype... No surf here at all because of the reef. I see it on tv and watch it for a few minutes and that's enough for me. Seen one big wave, seen them all.
Seriously though, to come back from what Occy had to go through, and
then become World Champion takes guts and determination. He's a role model for everybody
Yeah!! I would've gone straight to Occy......awesome surfer....awesome guy!!
Not to take anything away from the others.....just Occy was a hero to my brother and I, growing up
I don't get the surfing hype... No surf here at all because of the reef. I see it on tv and watch it for a few minutes and that's enough for me. Seen one big wave, seen them all.
**RUNS FOR COVER**
Nope. Nothing beats the feeling of just standing there hot dogging along a wave, the water underneath you, the sound of the wave crashing behind you, the turn off the lip, the long sweeping cut back. ahhh. not to mention the dry feeling inside the barrel surrounded by water. It's fucking amazing! It's my get away. It's my saviour. i love it! Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling
Honestly if you make a list of surfers of today and past and throw Occy's name in there, show it to any gremmie, ask them who there favourite surfer is, 75% will say Occy.
Mate, it was a pleasure to watch both MR and Occy work their magic last Sunday. Occy's still as powerful as ever and MR makes everything he does look effortless. You could see that the 2 of them were trying to put on a show for the spectators even though the southerly had turned the surf to slop
Nope. Nothing beats the feeling of just standing there hot dogging along a wave, the water underneath you, the sound of the wave crashing behind you, the turn off the lip, the long sweeping cut back. ahhh. not to mention the dry feeling inside the barrel surrounded by water. It's fucking amazing! It's my get away. It's my saviour. i love it! Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling
Mate, it was a pleasure to watch both MR and Occy work their magic last Sunday. Occy's still as powerful as ever and MR makes everything he does effortless. You could see that the 2 of them were trying to put on a show for the spectators even though the southerly had turned the surf to slop
Any Surfer who surfed in the 80's/90's IMO are role models, those surfers surf with so much grace and style and the wave doesn't surf them. they surf the wave. I hate the Snap, Bam, Punt Land style of surfing, IMO it's not surfing, surfing is reading the wave, beating the wave to the next manouvre, not letting the wave decide your next manouvre..
Gees it took me ages to catch up on today.....
Dont have to worry about PF tickets cos as usual they arent coming here...
Best of Luck to all that are trying tomorrow...
Our internet has slowed again.............grrrrrrr
About 10 days b4 its back to fast speed..
I guess I just don't understand it because I've never been around it ever in my life.
It's nice hearing people talk about stuff they LOOOVE though like Sam was.
It's the one thing that does it for me, the amount of times i've had a shit patch in my life, eg close people's death and just being out on my board, laying in the sun, catching the occasional wave, thinking about life and all great things it has to offer, i could go on for days about how surfing has helped me, i think it's made me a better person, i've learnt alot of life's lessons through it, and it's made me meet people i'll never forget even though i'll never hear from again!
It's the one thing that does it for me, the amount of times i've had a shit patch in my life, eg close people's death and just being out on my board, laying in the sun, catching the occasional wave, thinking about life and all great things it has to offer, i could go on for days about how surfing has helped me, i think it's made me a better person, i've learnt alot of life's lessons through it, and it's made me meet people i'll never forget even though i'll never hear from again!
I don't think a lot of people have enough time to just sit there for even 15 mins and think and contemplate shit every day...I know I don't. That side of surfing would be great....just out there, relaxed, thinking.
I'm so fucking scared of sharks though it's not funny. I get to my knees and I shit myself and come back in. Most shark attacks happen at that depth apparently! :eek: We can only go in the water between May and October here which sucks.
It's the one thing that does it for me, the amount of times i've had a shit patch in my life, eg close people's death and just being out on my board, laying in the sun, catching the occasional wave, thinking about life and all great things it has to offer, i could go on for days about how surfing has helped me, i think it's made me a better person, i've learnt alot of life's lessons through it, and it's made me meet people i'll never forget even though i'll never hear from again!
I wish I knew how to surf :(
I'd love to learn but I'd feel like a dick going to a surf school with little kids. I'd feel like Billy Madison
I don't think a lot of people have enough time to just sit there for even 15 mins and think and contemplate shit every day...I know I don't. That side of surfing would be great....just out there, relaxed, thinking.
I'm so fucking scared of sharks though it's not funny. I get to my knees and I shit myself and come back in. Most shark attacks happen at that depth apparently! :eek: We can only go in the water between May and October here which sucks.
i speak on my own here but surfing is exactly the same as walking the dog, mowing the lawn, cleaning the house, you don't think you have time for it, but there is always time. I work three days a week, have uni 4 days a week, party 3 days a week, and i always find time for at least 2-4 surfs a week, even if it's just one shitty wave, just the satisfaction does it for me.
I wish I knew how to surf :(
I'd love to learn but I'd feel like a dick going to a surf school with little kids. I'd feel like Billy Madison
Fuck em mate, everyone is always learning to surf, Kelly is still learning to nail moves, ask MR and he'll say fark i did this thing the other day wooo, the more surfers the better, i hate those pricks who despise learner surfers, you were a learner once to mate, get over it, give them a couple of tips, just like the older generation did for you, pass down the secret of surfing.
Fark i wanna surf!!
I wish I knew how to surf :(
I'd love to learn but I'd feel like a dick going to a surf school with little kids. I'd feel like Billy Madison
Do it, Rob!!!!! You'd love it!!! Ask MR to take you somewhere quiet and teach you.
Mate....I haven't been on a board since I was about 18 now :( But I can tell ya right now when we move back to the coast I'm back out there....weather I make a dick of myself or not.
The boys are going to Surf school at Secret Harbour and they can't wait.....I'll just watch Doug (their teacher) and pick up some refresher tips
Comments
ahhhhhhh Luke Egan sighs..................:p
**RUNS FOR COVER**
★ 2009 - Sydney, Brisbane, Auckland, Christchurch ★
★ 2011 - EV Newcastle, Melbourne 1, Melbourne 2 ★
Not to take anything away from the others.....just Occy was a hero to my brother and I, growing up
*runs*...............:p
HAHAHA have u been reading your Billabong labels Samule???...............:)
Mate, it was a pleasure to watch both MR and Occy work their magic last Sunday. Occy's still as powerful as ever and MR makes everything he does look effortless. You could see that the 2 of them were trying to put on a show for the spectators even though the southerly had turned the surf to slop
Watching it is totally mesmerizing IMO....
I'll give you a headstart............then I'll be coming for ya
It's nice hearing people talk about stuff they LOOOVE though like Sam was.
★ 2009 - Sydney, Brisbane, Auckland, Christchurch ★
★ 2011 - EV Newcastle, Melbourne 1, Melbourne 2 ★
If Daniel putting out his drug fucked claw hand to shake my hand means that we're mates, then I guess you could call us buddies
I despise the 'man'
Dont have to worry about PF tickets cos as usual they arent coming here...
Best of Luck to all that are trying tomorrow...
Our internet has slowed again.............grrrrrrr
About 10 days b4 its back to fast speed..
★ 2009 - Sydney, Brisbane, Auckland, Christchurch ★
★ 2011 - EV Newcastle, Melbourne 1, Melbourne 2 ★
I can make a mean Black Forest cake does that help at all..........:p
I don't think a lot of people have enough time to just sit there for even 15 mins and think and contemplate shit every day...I know I don't. That side of surfing would be great....just out there, relaxed, thinking.
I'm so fucking scared of sharks though it's not funny. I get to my knees and I shit myself and come back in. Most shark attacks happen at that depth apparently! :eek: We can only go in the water between May and October here which sucks.
★ 2009 - Sydney, Brisbane, Auckland, Christchurch ★
★ 2011 - EV Newcastle, Melbourne 1, Melbourne 2 ★
Yes it does
I wish I knew how to surf :(
I'd love to learn but I'd feel like a dick going to a surf school with little kids. I'd feel like Billy Madison
hehehe gets out the ingredients...:)
Fark i wanna surf!!
Mate....I haven't been on a board since I was about 18 now :( But I can tell ya right now when we move back to the coast I'm back out there....weather I make a dick of myself or not.
The boys are going to Surf school at Secret Harbour and they can't wait.....I'll just watch Doug (their teacher) and pick up some refresher tips
Just go further down the beach by yourself and muck around..........
fall off paddle back out.......fall off paddle back out....
The guy that runs a surf school at our beach drives me nuts.....
Every time I see him I wanna punch his head in.....god I cant stand him..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KB5VuKFjy-M