cheap guitar question

GreenTeaDiseaseGreenTeaDisease Posts: 3,359
edited January 2008 in Musicians and Gearheads
is an epiphone worth the $165 or whatever or should I spring the extra $100 for a squire? I had a squire when I was a kid, they are nice little guitars. but I like the les paul-like shape of the epiphones.
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  • is an epiphone worth the $165 or whatever or should I spring the extra $100 for a squire? I had a squire when I was a kid, they are nice little guitars. but I like the les paul-like shape of the epiphones.
    I have an AMAZING LP-100 but I bought a REALLY bad SG Special.(Both from Epi). Depends on the guitar. I love my squier strat more than anything and my squier tele comes in second. What's the model?
    Grand Rapids '04, Detroit '06
    JEFF HARDY AND JEFF AMENT USED TO LOOK THE SAME
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  • I have an AMAZING LP-100 but I bought a REALLY bad SG Special.(Both from Epi). Depends on the guitar. I love my squier strat more than anything and my squier tele comes in second. What's the model?

    not sure yet, just started thinking about it. poked my nose into the guitar shop on the way home yesterday to look at prices.
  • I have a squier strat.. it's not too bad, but I've played cheap epiphones that are much, much better :]
  • dunkmandunkman Posts: 19,646
    i have an epi SG.. i love it.. sturdy and red :)

    good guitar for the money.. not great, but good
    oh scary... 40000 morbidly obese christians wearing fanny packs invading europe is probably the least scariest thing since I watched an edited version of The Care Bears movie in an extremely brightly lit cinema.
  • PaukPauk Posts: 1,084
    The thing with cheap guitars is the quality control isn't great. So it'd be a bit naive to say all epis are crap or all epis are great, it really does depend. Most are a bit rubbish, but there are diamonds in the rough. So buy instore if possible. If you're going to buy online then you have to accept the possible risk of getting one of the rubbish ones. Same goes for all cheap brands, they're cheap for a reason, and that's lack of consistancy.

    When I bought my epi dot I played every dot I could find in the 4 music shops near me. They ranged a hell of a lot, and one was head and shoulders above the rest so I got that one. Of the dozen or so I tried, 3 or 4 of them were really really terrible guitars. So there really is no black and white answer.
    Paul
    '06 - London, Dublin, Reading
    '07 - Katowice, Wembley, Dusseldorf, Copenhagen, Nijmegen
    '09 - London, Manchester, London
    '12 - Manchester, Manchester, Berlin, Stockholm, Copenhagen
  • fowls wrote:
    The thing with cheap guitars is the quality control isn't great. So it'd be a bit naive to say all epis are crap or all epis are great, it really does depend. Most are a bit rubbish, but there are diamonds in the rough. So buy instore if possible. If you're going to buy online then you have to accept the possible risk of getting one of the rubbish ones.

    When I bought my epi dot I played every dot I could find in the 4 music shops near me. They ranged a hell of a lot, and one was head and shoulders above the rest so I got that one. Of the dozen or so I tried, 3 or 4 of them were really really terrible guitars. So there really is no black and white answer.

    hmm this is true. But I haven't played guitar in a good 10 years so I may not know what sounds good.
  • PaukPauk Posts: 1,084
    It really isn't that hard to tell the difference between guitars. Play a range of guitars with similar specs and it'll be pretty obvious what sounds right, even if you don't know the reasons behind it. The key is to directly compare. If you don't know what you're looking for then it's difficult to tell by playing one guitar alone, but plenty easy if you play 4 or 5.

    One good way of checking the quality of the wood in a guitar is to strum the guitar and then hold the guitar up by it's body. With a decent guitar you should be able to feel some resonance. Try it with a few cheap guitars and you're bound to find a few that don't resonate at all, those ones you want to avoid at all costs.
    Paul
    '06 - London, Dublin, Reading
    '07 - Katowice, Wembley, Dusseldorf, Copenhagen, Nijmegen
    '09 - London, Manchester, London
    '12 - Manchester, Manchester, Berlin, Stockholm, Copenhagen
  • fowls wrote:
    It really isn't that hard to tell the difference between guitars. Play a range of guitars with similar specs and it'll be pretty obvious what sounds right, even if you don't know the reasons behind it. The key is to directly compare. If you don't know what you're looking for then it's difficult to tell by playing one guitar alone, but plenty easy if you play 4 or 5.

    One good way of checking the quality of the wood in a guitar is to strum the guitar and then hold the guitar up by it's body. With a decent guitar you should be able to feel some resonance. Try it with a few cheap guitars and you're bound to find a few that don't resonate at all, those ones you want to avoid at all costs.

    good tip, thanks. I've never actually bought one myself before.
  • NovawindNovawind Posts: 836
    If you want a Les Paul type body, that's what you should get. Get the guitar you want, not a guitar you "kind of" want.

    I also agree that before you pick one, you should try as many as you can. Things to look for:

    -String Tension: if the guitar is tuned up normally and the strings feel tense, it may not be the best fit between the neck, nut, and bridge. Electrics are designed to have a little less tension so you can make bends. Try bending all the strings at the twelfth fret and compare how much effort it takes. Also the action (height of the strings from the fretboard) should be small, close enough so it doesn't take a great deal of effort to make chords or press a string, but not small enough so the strings will sometimes hit upper frets and buzz.

    -Intonation: The notes at each of the frets should be as close to their names as possible. What I mean by this is if you play the low E string, it should read an E when tuned properly. When you pluck it at the twelfth fret, it should also read an E (one octave higher). A properly set up guitar to begin with should exhibit this behavior (Check all the strings this way). This and the above problem may be solved by a professional set up by a guitar tech, but what you're looking for is the guitar that doesn't need all that work to begin with. :)

    -Comfort: Some guitars just feel comfortable to play. Try it sitting down, and standing up with a strap at a length that feels good to you. Another important thing for me is the neck. Stratocaster type necks feel most comfortable to me, I can play them anywhere and they fit right in my hand. Les Paul necks are a bit bulkier and can be awkward, but I still own one for hard rock and power chord stuff. :) One thing that I personally look for is upper fret access. My Epiphone Les Paul has a set-neck (glued to the body) and only a lower cut (standard LP look). This makes it a little harder to reach the upper frets because my thumb cannot move up higher than where the neck meets the body, I kind of have to stretch my fingers to reach the 17th fret and up. If you're just beginning again though, I don't think that will be an issue for your first guitar. Open chords will be your starting point.

    -Finish: Some guitars get damaged in shipping (even supposed "new" ones at guitar shops) so inspect each one carefully. You don't want to pay full price for a guitar with cosmetic blemishes. If looks don't bother you that much, you still may be able to get a discount on one of these "blems." Check the front, back, sides, binding and fretboard for scratches and dents.

    -Pickups: Most lower level guitars (Squiers and Epiphones) have average pickups installed stock. Some may sound better than others, so you really just have to go by ear on this one. (I've played a $200 Squier Tele that sounded better than a $600 Schecter.) Try all the guitars on a similar amp (or the same amp if at all possible) so you know the differences are in the guitars, not the amp.
    If idle hands are the devil's workshop, he must not be very productive.

    7/9/06 LA 1
    7/10/06 LA 2
    10/21/06 Bridge 1
  • ianvomsaalianvomsaal Posts: 1,224
    It really depends on the Epi - what model are you talking about???
    Most likely you're talking about a cheap Epi like a Special-II - if that's the case, naaa it's not worth it.
    Now if we're talking about a Studio, Standard, Classic, Custom, Ultra, or Elitist - then yeah, go for it.

    - Ian
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  • thanks guys, very helpful tips. I am trying to start up playing again without telling my guitar-playing family (because they will laugh at me). I may just sneak my accoustic out of my parents' house for a while and try to get back in the swing before I spend any money. but I always wanted a cool little solid body.
  • senninsennin Posts: 2,146
    I got a Schecter Tempest Custom....great guitar for the price. It's sexy looking....a sort of Les Paul like body.

    I'd like to upgrade the pickups sometime, but it sounds fine as is.....plus I need to play more to justify upgrading. :p
  • MLC2006MLC2006 Posts: 861
    pretty much all the guitars I've seen in the $165 range are awful. My friend has one of those Special II guitars and you can damn near cut your hands on how sharps the ends of the frets are. you should be able to get an Epiphone Les Paul Standard for $400 with no problem. while it may not be as good as one of the $2000 Gibsons, it will be light years ahead of the cheaper priced Epiphones. now come on, you know you can get your hands on $400.
  • DOSWDOSW Posts: 2,014
    I am trying to start up playing again without telling my guitar-playing family (because they will laugh at me).

    Oh come on now. If you're serious about it they'll be supportive.
    It's a town full of losers and I'm pulling out of here to win
  • DOSW wrote:
    Oh come on now. If you're serious about it they'll be supportive.

    well I mentioned it to my mother and she already made fun of me. they don't need to know for a while :).
  • MLC2006 wrote:
    pretty much all the guitars I've seen in the $165 range are awful. My friend has one of those Special II guitars and you can damn near cut your hands on how sharps the ends of the frets are. you should be able to get an Epiphone Les Paul Standard for $400 with no problem. while it may not be as good as one of the $2000 Gibsons, it will be light years ahead of the cheaper priced Epiphones. now come on, you know you can get your hands on $400.

    yeah I realize a $200 guitar isn't gonna be anything great, but I'm just trying to not make any big purchases right now. you make a good point that you can do a lot better for $400. maybe I'll just wait for a while and play the guitar I have and then think about it.
  • EvilTBEvilTB Posts: 10
    yeah I realize a $200 guitar isn't gonna be anything great, but I'm just trying to not make any big purchases right now. you make a good point that you can do a lot better for $400. maybe I'll just wait for a while and play the guitar I have and then think about it.

    Personally I think the best reason to buy a Fender or Gibson product is resale value, something that is often of questionable relevance in the $200-$300 price range. Sometimes a guitar from a lesser known brand will be made from the same contractor in China/Indonesia/India or Korea. While Gibson may own its own Chinese factory, not all of their Chinese guitars are made there.

    By buying a used copy by a brand like Yamaha, Cort or Greg Bennett (Samick) you might get a little bit more guitar for the same money. (i.e something more intermediate grade.) About a decade ago Cort and Samick actually produced most of the world's guitars under contract. Try everything, don't limit yourself to Squire and Epiphone, but don't rule them out either.

    Finally, a Strat copy is usually more faithful to the original design than a Les Paul copy at $200-$300, as it is a cheaper design to begin with. The Gibson style guitars in the same price range are often compromised with incorrect wood, a flat top, bolt-on neck etc.
  • EvilTB wrote:
    Personally I think the best reason to buy a Fender or Gibson product is resale value, something that is often of questionable relevance in the $200-$300 price range. Sometimes a guitar from a lesser known brand will be made from the same contractor in China/Indonesia/India or Korea. While Gibson may own its own Chinese factory, not all of their Chinese guitars are made there.

    By buying a used copy by a brand like Yamaha, Cort or Greg Bennett (Samick) you might get a little bit more guitar for the same money. (i.e something more intermediate grade.) About a decade ago Cort and Samick actually produced most of the world's guitars under contract. Try everything, don't limit yourself to Squire and Epiphone, but don't rule them out either.

    Finally, a Strat copy is usually more faithful to the original design than a Les Paul copy at $200-$300, as it is a cheaper design to begin with. The Gibson style guitars in the same price range are often compromised with incorrect wood, a flat top, bolt-on neck etc.

    well trust me, the guitar I have is way, way, way more guitar than I need. I've always felt guilty about even having it. I don't need the best wood to sit in my apartment and try to remember what a D chord is...
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