Solder Monkeys (suggestions welcomed)

NovawindNovawind Posts: 836
edited August 2007 in Musicians and Gearheads
Ok so I grabbed my screwdriver and ripped the guts out of my Crybaby today. Took some pictures and I'd like some input before I do anything else to mangle this bad boy. I did manage to put it back together so I can always leave it as is, I'm just thinking of making some upgrades. Here's the PCB:
crybaby_pcb_pot.jpg

So I have a 95Q, perhaps not the best design. It's the silent auto-off switch in the heel of the crybaby, so the pedal springs up and the heel hits the off switch whenever your foot isn't on the pedal. Problem is there is sometimes a delay of maybe, half to one second, somewhere in there. And it's kind of annoying when I want the wah to stop right away. So first change I was going to install a regular switch and remove this auto-off one. The enclosure has been routed for the regular switch, seen here:
switch_mount.jpg

But I don't really know how the wiring would work. On the above pcb photo, there's four little solders with a circle in the center on the right side, and on the opposite side of that, is the auto-off switch which barely sticks out of the heel in the enclosure, being pressed on whenever the foot is taken off the wah. Here's a pic of the auto-off switch (sorry it's blurry):
silent_switch.jpg

And I imagine in order to replace this, I'm going to have to install one of those 9-jack input/output/power things like you see in the BYOC kits to work with the regular push-button switch that I'd install in the front.

After all this, also, I'd probably replace the pot with a Fulltone one. I would just scrap this and get a new wah, but I'm cheap and I do like the volume and variable Q controls on the side, gives the wah some character.

Suggestions? Worst case I guess I could try a BYOC wah drop-in kit, but that's last resort here.
If idle hands are the devil's workshop, he must not be very productive.

7/9/06 LA 1
7/10/06 LA 2
10/21/06 Bridge 1
Post edited by Unknown User on

Comments

  • JoooooshJooooosh Posts: 74
    The switches in the byoc kits (and most any true bypass, boutique quality pedal) is a 3PDT switch
    http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=20

    although you don't need this switch necessarily, the third set is of poles is just for the led so a DPDT switch would work, but I'm assuming you want an led to show when it's on.


    I've never built the byoc wah kit but I have built two of their other kits and I'm going to order 2-3 more this weekend, and from what I've experienced, I would highly recommend them. Great pedals, high quality parts, great customer-friendly service, and a forum full of helpful and insightful people willing to give you help on build tips, tech support, and modifications.
    I remember recently hearing a few clips of the finished wah kit, as well as a few topics with people showing off their completed wahs, do a quick search on their forum and you'll probably find some helpful posts.
    http://board.buildyourownclone.com/
    oh yeah, they have a buy three get one free sale going on now, as well as other coupon deals and such.

    As for the wiring, how many poles does that auto switch have? I can't tell by the photo.
    Also, try a quick google search, there might quite possibly be some sites showing a diagram of how to do the particular mod you're looking for.
  • ianvomsaalianvomsaal Posts: 1,224
    I 2nd that . . .
    Get yourself a 3PDT switch.
    Then you can run an LED, and you'll have True Bypass (no more tone sucking).
    I just ordered three 3PDT switches (about an hour ago) because I have a three
    pedals that I want T.B. and none have an LED (including a VOX V847 WAH).

    - Ian
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