How Much?
HailHailVitalogy
Posts: 5,205
How much would it cost for a tech to put in 3 preamp tubes (Tung-sol 12AX7) and 2 poweramp tubes (winged c's) into my Traynor YCV40WR?
I got the tubes already
PS: my Fender Fat Strat is still for sale, I just restrung it
I got the tubes already
PS: my Fender Fat Strat is still for sale, I just restrung it
2003: Uniondale, MSG x2 | 2004: Reading | 2005: Gorge, Vancouver, Philly | 2006: East Rutherford x2, Gorge x2, Camden 1, Hartford | 2008: MSG x2, VA Beach | 2009: Philly x3 | 2010: MSG x2, Bristow | 2011: Alpine Valley x2 | 2012: MIA Philly | 2013: Wrigley, Charlottesville, Brooklyn 2 | 2014: Milan, Amsterdam 1 | 2016: MSG x2, Fenway x2, Wrigley 2 | 2018: Rome, Krakow, Berlin, Wrigley 2 | 2021: Sea Hear Now | 2022: San Diego, LA x2, MSG, Camden, Nashville, St. Louis, Denver | 2023: St. Paul 1, Chicago x2, Fort Worth x2, Austin 2 | 2024: Las Vegas 1, Seattle x2, Indy, MSG x2, Philly x2, Baltimore, Ohana 2
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7/9/06 LA 1
7/10/06 LA 2
10/21/06 Bridge 1
btw, shjorry about typig, busted 2 fibgers tday:(
A tech shouldn't charge more than $75 to swap power tubes and adjust bias for you...especially for a pair. A quad might take a bit more work...but not much.
old music: http://www.myspace.com/slowloader
That Traynor is self biasing (pretty sure). You can do them all your self.
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I have no idea how to do that, lol
for the strat:
http://forums.pearljam.com/showthread.php?t=212724&page=4&highlight=fender+fat+strat
I'm lowering my price down to 300 shipped without setup, 315 shipped with setup
friend loked at rob cray strat 2 day-gregt, but wbats humbucker guitaor. hesl check the sinte 2morro-AI here
Okay, lets just put it this way, would you call an electrician to replace the light bulbs in your house when they go bad - it's the same thing, so why pay someone top $$$ to do something soo easy.
Literally, just gently pull the old tube down and out, and replace it, then move on to the next one - just match the tube value you're removing with the same kind of new tube (they've all got little pins on the bottom, just match up the pins with the empty holes). Also, our hands have oil on them, so I'd say just make sure you handle the new tubes with an oil free cloth, or easier, you can just wipe them down when you're done putting them in (note, what happens to oil when it heats up??? Remember that tubes heat up when the amp's on, so just wipe them down after you handle them).
It's very easy and should seriously take you all of about 5-minutes "at most" to replace them. Hope this helps - Cheers . . .
- Ian C.T. vom Saal
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How do I find out if I don't need to adjust the bias of the power amp tubes?
Check the manual on that amp or go to the Traynor web site, I'm about 99% sure it's self biasing. It's a Traynor thing that's sort of impressive.
I'm a advocate of getting the amp rebias'd each time. I do it myself of course. Some people don't think it's as necessary to rebias each time, but it is.
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How can you tell when your preamp tubes are gonna go? Its obvious with the power tubes. Is it just as obvious for the preamp tubes.
Majority is on your ear. Some people like warn out pre-amp tubes, others don't. Mind don't start sounding good to me until after 20 hours or so. Of course if one fails, you will know.
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- Ian C.T. vom Saal
also, when pre-amp tubes start going the amp starts getting a little more noisy - you can start to hear microfonics, and squeals, the amp seems to have less definition, tone starts to fade, volume loss, etc, etc.
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Could having bad power tubes cause the preamps to go bad. I am just wondering. My amp sounded alright, then it sound similar to a blown speaker in a way and the low end got really nasty sounding.
I know the power tubes were bad, but could I have overlooked the preamps. Hopefully the preamp tubes are fine, but time will tell.
All that can come from power tubes too. Pre amp tubes last a long time.
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While the amp is on, take a pencil and tap the tube. If you can hear it though your amp, you have a microphonic tube, and you should replace it.
old music: http://www.myspace.com/slowloader
Yeah - this has been covered by a few others, but pre-amp tubes (12AX7) can go bad (they generally last much longer than your power tubes). I generally try to keep a spare 12AX7 in my amp just in case.
Remember that your V1 preamp tube (sometimes covered by a metal shield) takes the brunt of the power because it's the first tube in the chain, so if it's bad, that sound passes through all the other tubes, getting amplified each time.
The V1 is usually the culprit for general noise problems, especially when both rhythm and lead modes are affected, or if the amp goes dead. Most problems of noise, poor tone, crackling or sputtering, loss of gain, excessive feedback and squealing are cause by a poor V1 tube.
If you are in doubt, you should merely replace the preamp tubes one-at-a-time beginning with V1. If the replacement tube fails to cure the problem, put the original tube back into it's socket and go on to the next, this way you don't mix up the tubes. Generally, only this substitution method works for sure on bad preamp tubes.
Cheers . . .
- Ian C.T. vom Saal
<b><font color="red">CONTACT ME HERE</font>: www.myspace.com/ianvomsaal</b>
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I have a Tung sol in V2. But the EH in V1 didn't seat properly because it was a little too fat for the socket even though it felt like it was seated, it really wasn't and caused issues when it heated up. I've since pulled it for the original sovtek 12Ax7 LPS and it's been lovely, I need to order another tung sol.
Jesus christ I have never heard my amp sound so fuckin good!! Running the OCD in front just made me cream myself!
Face it, its the OCD!!!!
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