Pedal order and bypassing?
nailz100
Posts: 1,176
I will be starting work on my own pedalboard this weekend or next and I was wondering exactly in what order I should be plugging in the pedals (from the guitar to the amp?) for the best results? I have a Korg DT-10, A Super Chili Picoso for a boost, A morley wah, and a boss line selector (plus I may add a few more pedals in the future).
The Big question I have is....can I wire the line selector in some way so that I can easily bypass it if I want (remember everything is run underneath) with the exception of the Neutrik Connections mounted on the side of the board.
I use the line selector to switch between my guitar wireless's at a show and thats pretty much it. I don't want to have to be replacing AA's everytime I practice....but I also don't want to take the Boss line selector off of the board, or out of the loop. I plan on routing the selectors outputs to Neutricks mounted on the side of the board and then from there into the rack, but I am not sure of exactly how to bypass the pedal...or take it in or out of the chain with ease. Any help on pedal order and how to easily bypass the selector without screwing up the hardwiring of the board would be appreciated. Cheer
The Big question I have is....can I wire the line selector in some way so that I can easily bypass it if I want (remember everything is run underneath) with the exception of the Neutrik Connections mounted on the side of the board.
I use the line selector to switch between my guitar wireless's at a show and thats pretty much it. I don't want to have to be replacing AA's everytime I practice....but I also don't want to take the Boss line selector off of the board, or out of the loop. I plan on routing the selectors outputs to Neutricks mounted on the side of the board and then from there into the rack, but I am not sure of exactly how to bypass the pedal...or take it in or out of the chain with ease. Any help on pedal order and how to easily bypass the selector without screwing up the hardwiring of the board would be appreciated. Cheer
Only with our eyes closed can we truly see
Post edited by Unknown User on
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1. GUITAR into WIRELESS, into
2. VOLUME, to
3. WAH, then
4. COMPRESSION, then
5. OVERDRIVE'S/DISTORTION'S, then through any
6. MODULATION (phases, chorus, flanges, ect), then
7. DELAYS (delays, loops, reverbs, ect).
8. Splitters to Amps
Okay, this is if you're not using an effects loop.
I use my amps effects loop so that I can use both my amps Overdrive and my Overdrive/Distortion Pedals separate and together. Therefore I run my guitars signal into my: Volume, Wah, Compression, Overdrive/Distortion, to the INPUT on my Amp (I may end up putting another volume at the end of my signal chain so I can control my overall volume into the amp while my guitar is full open through the effects).
Then I run my Modulations and Delays through the amps effects loop. Sure it takes a couple more cables, but you get an overall better sound.
I'd tell you to run the effects bypass 1st in the chain (so you bypass the effects), though I don't know how you'd run a guitar cable in conjunction with a wireless unit, unless your guitar has two inputs (like some PRS that have a sperate piezo acoustic input).
Maybe I just don't understand this question.
Cheers . . .
- Ian C.T. vom Saal
<b><font color="red">CONTACT ME HERE</font>: www.myspace.com/ianvomsaal</b>
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the peters does have an EL right?
Leave enough space to be able to roll the gain knob on the SCP with your foot.
You also need room for the peters footswitch I think.
The DT 10 is a rack tuner right?
What else is in the rack?
(this was the order I was going to go)....from my guitar into the Wah, and then the DT-10 tuner, and then the boost, and then the line selector last and the output on the line selector http://www.bosscorp.co.jp/products/en/LS-2/ into the amp.....but maybe you're right, maybe I can't do that. Basically I just need to figure out the full layout of the board (plus room to wire additional future pedals) before I start constructing my board....just help H....E...L....P!
I've use a Whirlwind ABY box at the beginning of my chain so I could use another effects processor in a rack (TC-Electronics G- Force), and I've used that same whirlwind ABY at the end of my chain to switch between two amps (I've found the Whirlwind to be the best since it's quiet and doesn't click when I switch channels). If you just want to run two different guitars with separate wireless units - assign one to A-side, and the other to B-side, then you can switch between them (I'd put it on the front of the board, before everything else).
And on the note of effects - pedal order does make a big difference sound-wise - there is a general order you want to put pedals to make them sound best, and work well with one another. Most of the time if you put your pedals in the wrong order they'll sound kinda weird (with a couple exceptions like wah). Aligning them in the correct order makes all the difference in the world for better sound. If you feel you have to put them in a specific order for ease of use, you can always wire them correctly (just get longer cables), but place them in the order you like - you'll have wires running around, but they'll sound better.
I never said to place the Wah on the left side of the board (it's generally one of the 1st pedal in your chain). I don't know about you, but I run my board from right to left (plugging my guitar into the right side of the board). For me, my last pedal is on the far left, and out to my amp.
As I said before - the typical order of pedals (for best sound) is:
1. GUITAR into WIRELESS, into
2. VOLUME, to
3. WAH, then
4. COMPRESSION, then
5. OVERDRIVE'S/DISTORTION'S, then through any
6. MODULATION (phases, chorus, flanges, ect), then
7. DELAYS (delays, loops, reverbs, ect).
8. Splitters to Amps
9.(Maybe volume at the end instead of in the beginning - you can wire this at the end, but place it at the beginning, you just need a longer cable).
Cheers . . .
- Ian C.T. vom Saal
<b><font color="red">CONTACT ME HERE</font>: www.myspace.com/ianvomsaal</b>
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so just get an AB or a bypass box and put it right infront of the line selector.
you could either use a loop box or just a simple cheap true bypass box and completely bypass the LS when it's not needed.
http://www.analogman.com/switchbox/index.htm (example)
Cheers . . .
- Ian C.T. vom Saal
<b><font color="red">CONTACT ME HERE</font>: www.myspace.com/ianvomsaal</b>
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