Restringing problems

MissYouAllDay · December 2005

Hey all. I can restring my electric fine except for the high e string.

I have snapped 2. I need a good method for how to start it. Like through the hole in the peg then below/above etc the string. Someone fill me in on the secret. A quick step by step would be a life saver.

I was also wondering if I can have a 13 as my high e string. I have 10-52s but I have an extra 13 around and no 10. Would there be bad effects of having a 13? I mean I would only be increasing the gauge of 1 string. Or does it not work that way?

Help me out guys

Oh, Jimmy · December 2005

You can put the 13 on. Make sure the tuning peg hole is 90 degrees to the string comin up the neck. Feed the string through the hole and pull it through til you get some resistance. Now, grab the string at the nut and pull the string back out til your fingers get to the second fret. This should leave plenty of slack for a good anchor, but not too much. That should do you, but man that bottom string is gonna be a bitch to bend. Oh yeah, for the rest of the strings, do the same thing, but decrease how much you pull back through. I like to pull to the 1st fret on the low E and increase it every so slightly with the A,D,G,B, and E string as I work my way down. That is the method that Guitar World published. With a little practice doin it this way, you can change your strings, stretching and all, in about 10 minutes.

Pearl Juli · December 2005

lol...been there done that

I have snapped 2 high E strings too in the first attempts to restring my guitar. I just had to buy another set of strings just so I could change the high E. Why don't they make special packages with high E strings only? It would be very convenient.

JofZ · December 2005

Every GC in the country has single's at the counter, just ask

As for how to string a guitar, can you tell me what type of tuner's you are using? Are they locking, vintage?

A safe way to go. Take your time. Make sure you aren't binding anywhere and begin to tighten slowly.
Take up the slack a little bit at a time.
ONce you get an idea as to tension and slack, you'll be running through this in no time.

MissYouAllDay · December 2005

They are standard american fender tuners.

My biggest problem is starting the winding. How do I get the string to stay put after its through the hole?

moemoe6434 · December 2005

MissYouAllDay wrote:

They are standard american fender tuners.

My biggest problem is starting the winding. How do I get the string to stay put after its through the hole?

1. PUT STRING THROUGH HOLE

2. WRAP END AROUND THE TUNING PEG AND GO UNDER THE STRING COMING FROM THE BRIDGE.

3. PULL THE STRING OUTWARD (COMING OUT OF THE HEADSTOCK LIKE THE TUNING PEG) CREASING IT AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE.

4. WIND THE TUNING PEG (WHILE HOLDING THE PART YOU BEND UPWARD WITH THE OTHER HAND) SUCH THAT THE STING OVERLAPS THE PART THAT YOU CREASED UPWARD AND IT WILL THUS LOCK IT INTO PLACE.

IF YOU GET GOOD AT THIS, YOU SHOULD ONLY HAVE 1-1/2 WINGS OF STRING ON THERE AT MAX FOR ULTIMATE TUNING STABILITY.

moster78 · December 2005

MissYouAllDay wrote:

They are standard american fender tuners.

My biggest problem is starting the winding. How do I get the string to stay put after its through the hole?

For me, on the high E, if I can't get it to stay I wind it through the hole, wrap around half of the tuning peg and through the hole one more time. Sometimes I do it on the B as well. Just an old holdover from changing them on the acoustic.

JofZ · December 2005

MissYouAllDay wrote:

They are standard american fender tuners.

My biggest problem is starting the winding. How do I get the string to stay put after its through the hole?

The fender website has photos posted for proper stringing.

If they are vintage tuners, just a hole.
Bend the string so it 90 degrees, and wrap once. Then start tightening down, that is all that you should need to do.

moemoe6434 · December 2005

JofZ wrote:

The fender website has photos posted for proper stringing.

If they are vintage tuners, just a hole.
Bend the string so it 90 degrees, and wrap once. Then start tightening down, that is all that you should need to do.

Yep, vintage tuners are a little more difficult. But you mentioned that you had standard american fender tuners... you should not have to worry about that.

MissYouAllDay · December 2005

Given the method you guys and guitar world say.... when it is wound there should be the bit sticking out and this bit should be between the top wind and the second top wind (around the peg? And this results from going under the string at the begining?

Question 2: How can I tell if this gauge is too heavy and I need a setup?

moemoe6434 · December 2005

MissYouAllDay wrote:

Given the method you guys and guitar world say.... when it is wound there should be the bit sticking out and this bit should be between the top wind and the second top wind (around the peg? And this results from going under the string at the begining?

Question 2: How can I tell if this gauge is too heavy and I need a setup?

I do not understand question 1, but to answer your second question..... You need to intonate your guitar any time you change sting guages. If you notice that the neck is bowing, notes are buzzing in certain areas, etc.

You can do all of this yourself, it is very easy.

JofZ · December 2005

MissYouAllDay wrote:

Given the method you guys and guitar world say.... when it is wound there should be the bit sticking out and this bit should be between the top wind and the second top wind (around the peg? And this results from going under the string at the begining?

Question 2: How can I tell if this gauge is too heavy and I need a setup?

Take into a Fender authorized tech for a set up. It will be less then 50 bucks and he might even let you watch

It isn't difficult to adjust saddles on a strat, but I would never tell anyone to fuck with the truss rod, NEVER!

moemoe6434 · December 2005

JofZ wrote:

Take into a Fender authorized tech for a set up. It will be less then 50 bucks and he might even let you watch
It isn't difficult to adjust saddles on a strat, but I would never tell anyone to fuck with the truss rod, NEVER!

as long as you have an understaning of how the instument works, you know how a truss rod woks, move it in VERY small incerments at a time (in the right direction) you will have no problem.

All this can be learned with a basic physics understanding of how materials react to applied forces. Or a decent book by Dan Earlwine on setting up a guitar.

okay, maybe it is not for everyone... i am an engineer and that stuff comes second nature to me mybe i take that for granted sometimes.

Do as JofZ says, take it to a qualified fender tech. it does not cost that much.

who's_pearljam? · December 2005

moemoe6434 wrote:

All this can be learned with a basic physics understanding of how materials react to applied forces. Or a decent book by Dan Earlwine on setting up a guitar.

I've been here for a couple of years now, and someone else finally knows of Dan! :cool:
I've pasted this link so many times and it should be federal law that anyone with a guitar should have this

:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.html

You can have a 13 for the high string. It'll essentially be like having 2 b strings. It'll be fun bending it! The thing you might run into is that it may be too big for the nut slot, depending how deep it's cut.
If you put a 13 on there, it may either bind in the slot, or possibly end up widening the slot so that if you ever go back to a 10 gauge it'll rattle in the larger slot.
I'd stick with the 10. It'll be a louder e string and might overpower the b string.

For a strat, I always like the locking method. I'll go find a diagram somewhere and be back.
If you have enough slack to have three wraps on the post below the hole, you put some downward tension on the nut for a nice tone, too.

moemoe6434 · December 2005

who's_pearljam? wrote:

I've been here for a couple of years now, and someone else finally knows of Dan! :cool:
I've pasted this link so many times and it should be federal law that anyone with a guitar should have this :

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.html
.

Yeah man, i came accross Dan about 4 or 5 years ago on the LPF, i have traded a few emails back and forth a few times on ideas and such. He is a master craftsman and an expert luthier to say the least. His instructional packages are worth its money in gold. I also like that he is very old school and does most or all his work with his hands (or his trained workers).

Dan is the cream of the crop!

who's_pearljam? · December 2005

moemoe6434 wrote:

Yeah man, i came accross Dan about 4 or 5 years ago on the LPF, i have traded a few emails back and forth a few times on ideas and such. He is a master craftsman and an expert luthier to say the least. His instructional packages are worth its money in gold. I also like that he is very old school and does most or all his work with his hands (or his trained workers).

Dan is the cream of the crop!

Yup,,, and a great player, too! We went out to Ohio once to visit his shop when we were making guitars, and he took the time to show us all kinds of secrets. (the secrets flowed a little better when the beer flowed!

)
Not only that, but Jorma Kaukonen was hanging out there, too.

I can't find a diagram of my favorite way to string a strat, but I'll find one yet!
Here's a link to the Mr gear head strat set up guide anyway:

http://www.fender.com/support/setup/stratsetup.php

I think it's relatively easy to adjust a truss rod, but you DO have to be careful. Like Moe said, subtle adjustments and don't do it if it seems scary. It's a good thing to learn, though if you play a lot. A Strat or Tele are the best to learn on, too. Just a bunch of screws and nuts and bolts holding those together! :cool:
The worst things that can happen are if you are trying to turn a truss rod nut on an old guitar and it is rusted, and it breaks. So don't force anything or work on old guitars if you don't know what you're doing.
And don't turn too far, like more than 1/8 turn to start.
Well, you won't need to do that anyway if you're sticking with the same gauge strings.

moemoe6434 · December 2005

who's_pearljam? wrote:

Yup,,, and a great player, too! We went out to Ohio once to visit his shop when we were making guitars, and he took the time to show us all kinds of secrets. (the secrets flowed a little better when the beer flowed! )
Not only that, but Jorma Kaukonen was hanging out there, too.

That is awesome you have been to his shop, i have seen many photos of it, that is it. My favorite photos were of his reincarnation of the Albert King V guitar that he made for a customer this past year. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!

who's_pearljam? · December 2005

moemoe6434 wrote:

That is awesome you have been to his shop, i have seen many photos of it, that is it. My favorite photos were of his reincarnation of the Albert King V guitar that he made for a customer this past year. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!

The dude I was making guitars with and I had a running joke after we were there. We were measuring and suddenly we were in the league of 11/64ths!
Dan was showing us how he drilled for bridge studs, or something like that, and he said, "I use an 11/64ths drill".
We were laughing like,, "whoa,,, we're just guitar players! We never KNEW there was such a thing as 11/64ths!"

He's such a great guy. My friend had an original Flying V (One of 80!) It had a broken headstock, and Dan wouldn't touch it. He referred us to Mike Stevens in Houston. So we road tripped it down there from Ohio and he repaired it. Stevens is an unbelievable scientist at that stuff, too.
I actually learned a lot from Eric Schulte, if you ever heard of him. He lived right near me and I spent a lot of time with him (about a hundred years ago, it seems).

Restringing problems

Comments