I put on new gauge strings...help!
djyman15
Posts: 181
I went from 9s to 10s, GHS boomers(of course:)). Anyone know how to adjust the setup of my guitar to make the thing sound right? Also what tools will I need?
"Even if your heart would listen, I doubt I could explain"-Jimmy Eat World
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Sometimes you may need to enlarge the nut slots for the bigger string. Potentially not easy, but most likely not needed.
Like those guys say, tighten the truss rod only a tiny bit at a time. Even less than a quarter turn. And if it's an old guitar, you may want to loosen it a tiny bit before you tighten it in case it's stuck.
It should be a law that A copy of Guitar Player Repair Guide should be handed out with every guitar sold! Great book for all kinds of guitar maintainence and repairs.
By Dan Erlewine,, a really really nice guy. And it covers all kinds of stuff like this.
10's will sound much better! you'll like it!
Don't be mankind. ~Captain Beefheart
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I use 11's and 12's, you're right.
I didn't want to tell him that yet! 12's definitely break in the fingers!
There is a big improvent from 9's to 10's though.
Don't be mankind. ~Captain Beefheart
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wouldn't that be the other way around. Flat Away from the nut. Sharp towards the nut, by way of string tension?
Uh Oh!,,,,,,,hmmmmm,,,,,,!
The tuners control the string tension. The length of the string on the frets controls intonation.
Think of the fretboard as 24 inches between the nut and the bridge saddles. The e string is tuned at a perfect E.
If you fret at the 12th fret, it's halfway, an octave, 12" from the bridge should be E.
If it sharp (higher than E) you need to lengthen the string by moving the saddle away to make the string longer.
If flat ( lower ) then you shorten the string by moving in towards the nut.
(in reality, it needs to be more than 12 inches because of compensation issues, but really, you just do it with a tuner.)
When you put thicker strings on, you usually need to lengthen the span because the will sound sharp at the 12th.
Similar to when you look at the bridge, the saddles for the thicker strings are progressively farther from the nut.
If the neck is dead straight, it's longer. but if you adjust it a bit for "relief" you need to intonate again. That's why you wait till the neck is where you want it first.
Whew! I could use a pina colada after that!
Don't be mankind. ~Captain Beefheart
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-low
Brilliant o wise one.
Release, turn your guitar over, unscrew the plate on the back of the body. See the bottom of the tremelo with the springs. You need to add a couple of springs or tighten the screws holding them in place. Then you need to add a few turns to the truss rod and reset the intonation as Who's Pearljam has instructed.
When you tighten the nut, it wants to pull the neck back, when you loosen it, the neck will bow forward, so like they say, you fine tune the neck to the force of the pull of the strings. Heavy strings pull harder and want to bow the neck forward, and also pull harder on the trem springs, which is why ithe bar sticks out farther. So when you put heavier strings on, you gotta make all those adjustments.
You'll like the heavier strings. they sound much more powerful!
Don't be mankind. ~Captain Beefheart
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