Intonation question...
Anon
Posts: 11,175
I only have a cheap SG copy, which always seems out of tune, even right after I have tuned it correctly. Have never really worried about trying to adjust it (prefer playing my Fender acoustic anyway), but today I started reading some threads on intonation and decided to have a go at fixing it up. I managed to get 5 of the 6 strings adjusted correctly, but the G string is still about a quarter note higher at the 12th fret than at the open position. The problem is that I can't adjust it any further than it already is. Is this caused by something else, or is it just my guitar. Am actually keen to sort this out now, as it sounds 100% better than it did before, besides the G string that is....
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Unless the neck is warped, you should be able to fix your intonation as much as it can be fixed with a good setup and a properly cut nut.
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First make sure the neck is straight. If it's bowed out then you'll sound sharp at the 12th fret because you're shortening the string when you're fretting up there.
If the neck is straight and it's that one string that won't intonate, maybe the saddle is sitting so that the point is forward:
Nut
|\ -- Tailpiece
You may be able to unscrew the adjusting screw all the way out and turn that one saddle around so the point (the part that the string sits on) is towards the tail piece and it'll give you a bit more room to get it intonated.
Nut
/| -- Tailpiece (Nice artwork! )
I see a lot of cheaper guitars that have the bridge placed in the wrong place and makes it unadjustable. (An amazing amount of Gibson Les Pauls, too! )
Two ways of fixing it if you can't adjust it by doing the above:
One is to pull the bridge and studs that hold it to the body, fill it with a hardwood dowel, and glue, then redrill the bridge studs back towards the saddle a bit. It seems scary but it's not really THAT hard and is done all the time.
The other is to put a different bridge altogether like a schaller or Nashville bridge that have more room for adjustment. You would have to redrill for them anyway, so the dowel method may be the answer if it's a cheap guitar.
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Hadn't thought of that..... am off to try it now.
I can't remember now, but if you look at the notches on the saddles themselves you can see which grooves are bigger for the thicker strings and which notches are smaller for the skinnier strings. For mine, an SG Special, the two saddles that were slanted differently were for the E and A bass strings. Hope this helps.