String Gauge of Strats?

StickmanJam

So I'm still kinda new to changing strings, I've done it before, but today was the first time on my American Strat I bought in July. Anyway, there's now a little bit of a noticeable buzz on the low E-String after changing, and I'm having Sam Ash take a look at it tomorow. (I didn't change the rest of them incase I did something wrong)

Question is, I was putting .09 gauge Ernie Ball's on there, and I know if you change string gauges, that can effect the truss rod, so my question is, does anyone know, generally, what Fender Strats come with stock as far as string gauge? Because that would explain the problem?

It would be a pin in the ass if I had to get my axe set up everytime I change strings.

thanks

ianvomsaal

STRATS come standard with 9's, but many players use heavier.
I've used 10's for years and years, and like the tone a lot better.
Don't take all the strings off at once (change them 1 at a time or
you will typically have some adjustment problems, since the neck
tension was completely released and then put back little by little,
which can screw with your neck until it completely settles).
Cheers . . .

- Ian C.T. vom Saal

StickmanJam

ianvomsaal wrote:

STRATS come standard with 9's, but many players use heavier.
I've used 10's for years and years, and like the tone a lot better.
Don't take all the strings off at once (change them 1 at a time or
you will typically have some adjustment problems, since the neck
tension was completely released and then put back little by little,
which can screw with your neck until it completely settles).
Cheers . . .

- Ian C.T. vom Saal

That's what I did, I changed the Low-E string by itself, noticed the problem, and then nixed the whole plan to change all the strings until I found out what happened.

I don't know what I could have done, maybe I did a complete hack job on the string, I just need to get the hang of changing strings.

Oh, Jimmy

If its got a tremolo you gotta add the springs when you get bigger strings.

ianvomsaal

I can tell you how to change your stings very efficiently - I use to do some tech work for a couple of the guitarists in the bands
that I was touring with - I basically did it for the extra $$$, and usually because I wasn't doing anything before or after I went
on (and it also gave me the opportunity to listen to some of the other bands). I usually had to be able to change a full set of
strings within the length of a song, so I used a power string winder (which was basically a winder on the end of a cordless drill)

Anyhow, here's my quick, easy, and very nice looking method:

1). Pull the string through the guitar, over the bridge, through the nut, and up to the tuner, just like you're going to wind it on . . .

2). But now line-of-site measure two tuners past the tuner you're currently using. and pre-cut your string at that tuner.
(Example: basically if you're stringing the A-string you'd pull the string to the G-String's tuner and cut it there).
I typically use my fingers as a guide, placing my thumb on 1 tuner and my index 2 tuners away, then moving that distance where
I need it(this is a good method to use when you run out of tuners but still need the 2-tuner distance - like for the B and
high-E strings, or if you have a 3+3 headstock because you'll need the distance for the A, D, G, & B-strings as well).

3). Now feed about an 1/8" of the string into the tuner and begin winding it on.
For your 6-in-line tuners and 3+3 tuners, they will ALL be wound away from you (clockwise).
**(Important, you're going to sandwiching the end of the string, so you'll have one wrap above the end and the rest below)**
This basically makes a secure, fast, and very neat wind, with just the right amount of excess string.
I usually give my unwound strings 2.5 tuners of pre-cut length, and my low-E string about 1.5 tuners of pre-cut length.

Cheers . . .

- Ian C.T. vom Saal

Novawind

I've used 10s on my Strat since I got it and have had no problems at all.