Blues Jr Speaker Swap.
Pacomc79
Posts: 9,404
I rememember someone earlier mentioned it.
One of Ted Weber's recommendations, is either the 12A150 (alnico) and the 12F150 (Ceramic) A silver bell might be good if you wanted to go british and I bet the Blue dog would sound good and warm as well. I also know vintage 30's sound good in them and so would likely a green back or many of the eminence or scumback speakers. Ted designed the two alnico 12's for the Tweed Twin reissue. I wouldn't be suprised if they are modeled after the 12A150. which is similar to the old jensens.
The 12F150B sounds cool too, if you're looking for more chime.
http://www.tedweber.com
One of Ted Weber's recommendations, is either the 12A150 (alnico) and the 12F150 (Ceramic) A silver bell might be good if you wanted to go british and I bet the Blue dog would sound good and warm as well. I also know vintage 30's sound good in them and so would likely a green back or many of the eminence or scumback speakers. Ted designed the two alnico 12's for the Tweed Twin reissue. I wouldn't be suprised if they are modeled after the 12A150. which is similar to the old jensens.
The 12F150B sounds cool too, if you're looking for more chime.
http://www.tedweber.com
My Girlfriend said to me..."How many guitars do you need?" and I replied...."How many pairs of shoes do you need?" She got really quiet.
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It depends on the amp really, I'm not sure how easily you can pull the chassis on the BJ. I know it's not all that difficult because I've seen tons of BJ's with Vintage 30's installed. I know on my Orange 4 screws pop out and the amp chassis comes out. That reveals the speaker, then it's just unscrewing and unplugging the old speaker and screwing the new one in, then you simply plug the new speaker in and you're good to go.
the speaker switch in my deluxe was a pain because the stock speaker had 8 bolts, the vintage 30 had 4. which meant i had to take the front grille off and remove the fabric to get the 4 extra bolts out of the way. then restaple the grill cloth and reassemble.
blah.
so that's the only think that is a potential trip up. getting the chassis out of the way is easy.
good times, how hard was it to remove the front grill.
oh and this is a fun little nugget.
(Thank you for your interest in the '60 Relic Strat "One Off".
The FAT PRICE on the item is $2679.00.)
yeah that'd be nice, and I'd like to have 9.5 over 7.5 radius, but oh well $1600 cheaper. I think I can do pretty good in the mod department for 1600 bucks.
I'll have to check tonight when I get home. I know there were 4 screws to take off for the back cover to get to where the tubes and speaker are, not sure if there's more though.
well, the baffle board itself just comes off with screws. i'm trying to remember.
it was just a pain to remove staples enough to roll the grill cloth back to get the speaker bolts out. and then go buy a staple gun to reattach the cloth.
Thanks for the suggestions Pac, that was me who asked about it earlier. I am definitely going to look into this. Do you know if places like Guitar Center carry the speakers or is it something that needs to be ordered, depends on what you are looking for huh?
-from "n.s.u." by Cream
you would order webers direct from Ted Weber. I've dealt with him before. Good guy. I bought an attenuator from him.
I haven't decided which one I want for the orange though. Probably a 30 watt Blue dog.
Do you have to match the wattage of the speaker to the wattage of your amp?
but generally, to drive a speaker properly, you want them somewhat closely matched i think.
So if I have a 15 Watt amp, what watt speaker would be safe to install, anything over 15?
yeah, for the most part, as long as the ohm #'s line up.
Right, but will a 15 watt amp drive a 30 or so watt speaker? Or will I be missing out on something because there's too much of a gap?
not really. paco's right about the ohmage being the critical factor. i was thinking about cases where an amp's going full tilt and really beating the hell out of a speaker of similar rating, which doesn't happen a lot in our realm.
the vintage 30 in my orange is rated for 60W. my amps make 22W and 16W. so there you go.
my initial answer is kind of stupid.
you won't be missing out. essentially when you swap the speaker you are looking for a different character. Basically this is the case with everything musically, it's all tonal character choices. As Ex said, the V30 in our amps is a 60 watt speaker in our 16-18 watt amps. The extra power handling means you get a little longer trip up the clean and gain before breakup. Sometimes you want that speaker cone break up earlier. Lower wattage speakers give up the goods earlier at the expense of say clean headroom and they aren't as tight as say a 80 watt speaker that you might want for say metal. The vintage 30 is just a great all around general speaker kind of in the middle, good break up good sparkle and definition. It depends on what you want to do. I am thinking of going to a lower wattage speaker 15-30 watts to get the sound of the speaker working at lower volumes. If I was gigging every night the V30 is perfect at above half on the volume level. I'm looking for a little more warmth and a slightly earlier breakup and a little more chime than my current state.
yeah, it's kind of like an engine component change in a car. The speaker is the engine and drive train (except in this case it really is a motor, boy I wish nascar guys would get it right), what you are doing is tweaking the components of your linear motor to get the desired tonal response at the volume level you want it. Some people want more cone action, some want less, some want a warm sound, some want bright it's the individual person, and thier needs.
Cool. Don't think I'm going to do anything now, but its still good knowledge have. I did manage to take the thing apart yesterday. Six screws for the back plate, four to take out the chassis, and it looked like 4 for the speaker. Damn it was a pain to put it back together though.